In this week’s edition of The Australian, Carolyn Beasley writes about her pursuit of a life-long dream to swim with humpback whales during her stay at the barefoot luxury wilderness tents of Sal Salis on Western Australia’s Ningaloo Reef.

“I’m maximising my reef time by staying at deluxe safari retreat Sal Salis, which is just steps from the water and is the only non-camping accommodation option inside Cape Range National Park. I’m met by manager Dale Gladigau in a golf buggy, and whisked into the discreet camp, where 15 glamping tents sit camouflaged among the dunes, along with a communal hub for all-inclusive gourmet meals and a self-service bar. 

Sal Salis treads lightly, with boardwalks to protect vegetation and water conservation a high priority. Each tent has solar power and an odour-free, composting toilet. There’s no phone signal or Wi-Fi, which suits me fine. I’m focused on the whale highway out front. 

Capitalising on its position, the property offers a variety of tours and activities, including guided snorkelling and hikes in the rocky ridges and canyons behind. On a walk to the top of Yardie Creek Gorge, I learn the range is an ancient coral reef; there are fossilised brain corals beside the track. Gravity-defying black-footed rock wallabies scuttle across rusty cliffs, and ospreys patrol above. Below, kayakers explore the creek, the only permanent water source in Cape Range.” Carolyn Beasley, The Australian.

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